1863-67. The wings are made of chitin built up in thin layers. The cream colored beads between the beetle wings are Mill Hill from my local embroidery shop. These beetle wing encrusted fabrics were created by local artisans on a small scale, but due to the growing trend in Europe, specifically England, of collecting "exotic goods" from the far corners of their Empire, larger industry centers were needed. Please practice hand-washing and social distancing, and check out our resources for adapting to these times. For centuries, the iridescent wings of beetles have been used as adornment, from the ancient Egyptian veneration of the scarab beetle, to the Amazonian tribes that used colorful elytra and feathers to create ceremonial jewelry, to the “singing shawls” of the Pwo Karen tribes of Thailand and Burma (the wings are strung together like tassels and make a delightful tinkling sound with the wearer’s movements). The elytra of the jewel beetle to be precise. Bodice (detail sleeve) of a Beetle Wing dress 1865-1875. Cotton muslin with beetle-wing and metal thread embroidery. Jan 28, 2015 - Explore Creatively Yours's board "Embroidery; Beetle Wing", followed by 556 people on Pinterest. Beetlewing embroidery is an applied technique using iridescent beetlewing casings (rather than the actual beetlewings). An 1820s silhouettes with stylized butas in beetle wings. See details of every online item in National Trust Collections and check the Places tab to plan your visits. It was made in India and I found it in a random search of the museum collection at the Embroiderer's Guild in the UK. 1860-1880, Manchester Art Gallery; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria and Albert Museum. Off-white cotton sheer ground with embroidered design of a stylized floral spray. Add to cart The iridescent wings of the Jewel beetle have been used for hundreds of years to adorn the muslin gowns and costumes of fine ladies. We have 36 in stock. In reality, the first Anglo-Indian beetle-wing dresses, presuming there were others lost to time, were probably more like Jane Fortnum’s goldwork dress — a striking embellishment on the fabric from which the dress was made, not an application onto an existing dress. lady curzon peacock dress detail. Regular price $6.95 Sale price $6.95 Sale. 100 Drilled/Undrilled Iridescence Green Blue Elytra Sternocera Jewel Beetle Wings Taxidermy Embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion Design Littlewingsmagic. 1867-1890, Hampshire County Council. Kerry Taylor Auctions. Beetle Wing embroidery - Embroidery Shop. They are alternatives to stones. I work as Volunteer textielconservation at museum TwentseWelle and this dress is one of my favorites. Loosen your grip on your pearls; no beetles are harmed in beetle-wing embroidery. If there’s a material that gets costumers All The Points for incorporating a material that is a) unusual, b) visually striking, and c) misunderstood in the annals of fashion history, it’s beetle wings. 1868-9. There are two different colors of the beetle wings; the flowers are done in the "coppery red" variety, the leaves in the more typical kind. Very interesting and entertaining as well as learning about beetle wing embroidery. They have a beautiful iridescent colour, changing from blue to green depending on which way you look at … See photos and get The Cut's perspective on the On Aura Tout Vu Couture collection, Beetle Wing Embroidered Gown, ca. In addition to working in the fashion industry, Leia also runs a consulting business helping museums with exhibition mounting and costume reproductions. Beetle-wings quantity. Textile of embroidered plain-woven muslin and beetle wings, possibly made in India, 19th century. Season 3, Episode 3, of Harlots (2019) features a dress with a bodice embroidered with beetle wings, worn by Liv Tyler as Lady Isabella Fitzwilliam. I fell in with the piece, and that love led me to the contemporary work of fiber artist Michael Cook. For at least several centuries, this type of work has been carried out in various Asian countries, notably China, India, Japan, Myanmar and Thailand. Well, anything’s possible, much like how the same woman could discover that by carving metal into long strips of “teeth” she could easily zip her way into and out of her clothing. Harvesting beetle wings is as easy as sweeping the forest ground — beetles swarm when they mate, then they die, and their bodies decompose quickly. 1827-1831 when she lived in India. Deviation from metalwork + beetle wings + white muslin ground didn’t really start to come into play for a few more decades. Sorry, your blog cannot share posts by email. It was common to be able to purchase pre-embroidered panels and sew fashionable dresses. Shipping calculated at checkout. She travels around the world for costume events, academic conferences, and vintage hunting. Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. 5 out of 5 stars (191) 191 reviews $ 13.98. The vines are executed in gold foil strips, the small flowers in gilt sequins, and the leaves in beetle elytra. See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. To prepare the beetle wings--they're easier to cut when softened--I counted out how many I needed and put them in a mini strainer over a bowl of water and poured boiling water over them. The children are cheerful and have adopted elements of Indian dress. If you own the rights to content here and wish it removed, please contact us. © Copyright 2007-2020 Frock Flicks, Trystan L. Bass, Kendra Van Cleave, & Sarah Lorraine Goodman. And even when imported textiles and goods did make their way to England from India, there has to be a certain adoption by many people in order to make something fashionable. Eventually the DIY craze hit, and actual beetle wings themselves were imported into England, and women took to embroidering their own pieces. Three historical costumers who decided the world needed a podcast and blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything right and wrong with them. Yay science! Thanks! Did the artist/journalist run out of steam and didn’t finish the dress? See more ideas about Beetle wings, Gold work, Wings etc. Yes, you read that correctly, beetle wings. Probably made from an Edwardian skirt panel. Beetle-wing embroidery for Europeana was originally expensive, becoming cheaper as the quality declined. Explore Dovima-2010's photos on Flickr. So back to Harlots. Beetle Wings for Embroidery. Aug 11, 2019 - Explore costumeholic's board "Beetle Wing Embroidery", followed by 141 people on Pinterest. The stately and regal Lady Mary Curzon, Baroness Curzon of Kedleston and Vicereine of India from 1898 to 1905, was born as Mary Leite... View the On Aura Tout Vu Spring 2013 Couture show. Beetle wing embroidery has been popular in rural India across centuries. 1926, decorated with gold embroidery and beetle wings. Probably not. Use of eltra in Indian textiles began to explode during the Mughal era (1526 - 1756). Search the shop Search. Crafting Scrap-booking Wedding Dress Embellishment Littlewingsmagic. Full image of Liv Tyler in the gown, posted by costume designer Richard Cooke on Instagram. Feb 8, 2015 - From the archives, an Object of the Day post on an example of iridescent design from the collection. The Joy of Sewing has Returned!! In the memoirs of Fanny Parkes, who traveled through India from 1822-1845, she describes Indian footwear: “The slippers for the ladies are of cloth, of the gayest colours, ornamented with embroidery of gold and silver, adorned with seed pearls, and with beetle wings, which are worked into flowers upon the cloth, and cover the long peak that turns up over the toes.” This is a remarkably similar description to these shoes believed to be made in India for the English market. She’s a fashion historian and archivist based out of New York City, where she got her MA in Fashion and Textile Studies at FIT. Dress worn by Mary Jane MacDougall, 1822, National Museums Scotland. 2500 Drilled/Undrilled Iridescence Green Blue Elytra Sternocera Jewel Beetle Wings Taxidermy Embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion Design Littlewingsmagic. Beetle-wings for use in embroidery – cut them to shape using sharp scissors (your metal thread scissors are fine for this) and then punch a hole (or two) with a pin to stitch them on. Let’s examine Western fashion’s relationship with beetle wings and see what would, or could, have been worn in the real 18th century England. Four layers of flounces, with jagged edges, that look like the shells, are also abundantly decorated with beetle wings. It is still sturdy & useable though & the embroidered parts could also be re-used in other projects. The shimmering emerald colour is not a pigmentation but a result of the microscopic structure of the cases themselves, which naturally reflects green-blue light. I mean, the skirt’s embroidery is well documented, but how does that bodice-type thing even work? Customer Login / Register. This causes a phenomenon called interference, in which light rays superpose each other in the minute spacings between the chitin layers, giving the wings a brilliant spectrum of color that changes depending on the viewer’s angle. Indian embroiders clearly initiated the technique. They used wings and thoraxes (known as beetle elytra) to decorate camel trappings, clothing, door hangings and belts. The earliest example I can find is from the Great Exhibition of 1851, in which Miss Mary West exhibited a black lace dress that featured the “novel application of the beautiful beetle-wing … so much used in Indian embroidery, but seldom seen in any executed in England.”. Article from nomadicdecorator.com. In traditional Indian embroidery techniques, beetle wings appear to be universally embroidered along with rich metals, and are considered a feature of metalwork embroidery; in surviving examples of Indian beetle-wing embroidery, they are without fail accompanied by goldwork — beetle wings by themselves aren’t really a thing. 1783, oil on canvas, Museo Nacional Thyssen-Bornemisza, Madrid. Elytra are the hard outer wing cases of jewel beetles. Favorite Add to 5 g. Real Iridescent Green Blue Jewel Elytra Beetle Wings Sequin 6 mm. Beetle Wing Embroidery of Michael Cook. Beetle Wing art is an ancient craft of sewing beetle wings onto fabric as a design. also, must’ve been terrible to replace.. but then if you’re in the beetle wing embellishment crowd I suppose you can probably afford it? That face you make when you realize you’ve just been found out. Shoes, linen with gold and beetle-wing embroidery, 1790s, Bata Shoe Museum. These dresses are made on Indian muslin with traditional embroidery. Johan Zoffany, “The Impey Family Listening to Strolling Musicians,” ca. Tea cosy, ca. Visual content is copyrighted to its respective owners, and inclusion here is under fair use for criticism, comment, and news reporting purposes. In all seriousness, what the fuck kind of a dress is this? Photograph is obviously not contemporary to the ball, but I didn’t need to tell you that. painting, figure, hand, feather, gold. Place of Origin. The brilliance of beetle wings do not fade over time, perhaps adding to the mystical connotation of these insects. I have mailed my last dress commission today. All rights reserved. See more ideas about beetle wings, embroidery, beetle. DISCLAIMER: Frock Flicks claims no credit for images featured on this site unless noted. Dovima-2010 has uploaded 37194 photos to Flickr. Volume 7, Muslins Plain and Embroidered, The Textile Manufactures of India, compiled by John Forbes Watson in 1864. Add to cart. Otherwise, you’re just the solo kook who likes gross bugs. These beetles are used due to their iridescent colors. These real beetle wings are the ultimate in luxury adornment for your finest needlework projects! Museum Number IS.468-1992. Chances are infinitesimal that an aristocrat in England would be so ahead of the fashion game that she would know that bug parts could be effectively applied to her stomacher and neckline and bring out the It Girl she always knew was inside. your own Pins on Pinterest Beetle wing embroidery is a textile embellishment that uses the rigid wing covers of the jewel beetle. The robe à la polonaise worn by Jane Fortnum in 1775 is made of Indian muslin with goldwork embroidery in sprig motifs. The tartan and the beetle-wing embroidery offer a wonderful cross-cultural dialogue in textile. Britain. Stay safe and healthy. Eventually, more and more commerce grew around exported beetle-wing embroidered textiles. The 5 piece dress is owned by the "Oudheidkamer Enschede" (Netherlands) and is preserved at the museumdepot of Museum TwentseWelle, Enschede (Netherlands). Supposedly this object was created by male embroiderers in India for export. Nov 13, 2016 - This Pin was discovered by revathi subhash. It is wonderful! They decorate not only bodice part, highlighting the small collar, but also appear on the bar at the long sleeves and cuffs. Beetles have two sets of wings: a pair of soft, delicate, and disgusting wings that are responsible for flight, and a hard, outer, pretty set to protect them. Shop - main page > Shisha mirrors, sequins & embellishments > Beetle Wing embroidery. Aside from the above shoes, we don’t have any known extant Western garments from the 18th century that feature beetle-wing embroidery — the earliest surviving examples are from the 1820s. Tamamushi Shrine, Horyu-ji, Nara prefecture, Japan. Or Mary herself? Quantity must be 1 or more Quantity. Is it possible that in the 1770s there was a woman in India who was taken by the glittering local embroidery customs and wanted to inject that “otherness” into her wardrobe, so she commissioned an embroidered stomacher and neckline trim for her dark green dress? There is a bit of surviving correspondence between two English women in India from 1784, in where one was interested in commissioning “several pieces of the thickest muslin to be worked in some small pattern in the fly’s wing, and gold, a leaf or something of that kind.” Eventually the letter writer did not end up commissioning the beetle-wing embroidered dress, but opted for silk embroidery instead. The National Trust here in the UK has a fabulous beetle wing Lady Macbeth costume worn by the actress Ellen Terry in 1888. They were, however, homesick for England, and so they continued to dress in the Western style, although they pragmatically had their clothing made out of lighter Indian cotton that was more suited to the warm climate. Dress worn to a ball by Lady Jane Russell ca. The style of metal thread embroidery indicates that it was done in Britain; it does not surround each wing case as it would have done if executed in India. Post was not sent - check your email addresses! Beetle curator Max Barclay shares specimens from his collection and talks about why jewel beetles were so popular for decorating dress, their vivid colour and how they were collected. Did you notice the beetle-wing embroidery on Liv Tyler’s gown in Harlots? ooh, really interesting! Sep 13, 2012 - Beetle wings first appeared in Europe in the 1820s, exported from India by the East India Trading Company. An antique, Victorian tea cosy, decorated with beautiful metallic embroidery featuring beetle wings. Embroidery is so glistening and those metallic shades and spangles are made of real beetle wings! Ivory tulle dress, ca. This dress is made from a lightweight but firm cotton fabric and is beautifully embellished with silk embroidery and beetle wings. But there’s a green 1890s Russian Court Gown inspired beetle wing gown. Tilly Kettle, “Colonel John Fortnum and Family,” 1775, oil on canvas, Museum of Fine Arts, Houston. Tagsactual researchbuggin' outguest postharlotsharlots seriesHistorical Accuracynitpick alertomg embroideryRichard CookeTVwell actually. Frock Flicks note: This is a guest post by our friend J. Leia Lima Baum, @jleialimabaum. Like, obvs. Category: Miscellaneous. Fashionable dialogue was frustratingly slow between England and her Indian colony. From shop Littlewingsmagic. Beetlewing is known to have been sewn onto muslin, satin, net and organza. They are both mostly green, but the ones in the leaf tend more toward purple, while the ones in the flower can flash copper over … She’s clearly worldly and cosmopolitan, since she casually wears exotic beetle wings. Description Description. Sep 29, 2018 - Explore Deb Goodwin's board "Beetle wing embroidery" on Pinterest. Date. Gradually, Indian taste began to find its way into fashionable dress. The dress is made of a luscious emerald-colored fabric, with the stomacher and neckline embellished with gold embroidery and elytra. Gold and beetle wing embroidery. After months of sea travel, letters, textiles, and other goods were subject to mold, shipwrecks, theft, destruction, and any number of other disasters. Beetle Wing Embroidery Collection by Gwenyver Costumeholic. Now, onto the details! Discover (and save!) Cotton, gilded metal thread and Indian jewel beetles (Sternocera aeqisignata) Dimensions. 14" or 36cm across x 10" or 25cm high. The costume is regal, powerful, striking, and exotic, all fitting for Lady Fitz. I’d seen the Victorian dresses and Ms Terry’s dress as well as the Sargent portrait. Ask her about normcore! For some real luxury, add these beautiful real beetlewings to your work... Products In This Category: Sort By. Lady Impey in a chemise dress looks … hot and miserable. Looks like a well-distributed embroidery pattern. Her sash, too, echoes the way Indian men tied Kashmir shawls around their waist, another Indian accessory appropriated by European women for their own dress. Materials and Techniques. I bought a bunch of elytra for a project, and they arrived smelling very strongly of mothballs, so I have been vaguely wondering if the insects were “ranched” and then killed using mothballs, so knowing they can be swept up from the ground is interesting. By The Frock Flicks Team on September 9, 2019 in Eighteenth Century. Several reticules in various stages of completion on different grounds. (Photo credit: Stephen Brayne.) Dismiss Visit. Detail of beetle wing embroidery on white cotton gauze dress, embroidered in India for export, ca 1865. beetle wing embroidery of 1830-1832 Henry Art Gallery. The wings of the beetle were collected after the beetle had died. But what about historical accuracy in the real world? Well, that had everything to do with the colonization of India. Beetles, clearly, are nothing new. They are kind of like cutting fingernails. Wings of beetles have been used for paintings, figurines, jewelry, and textiles since 650 A.D. Would a woman of Fitz’s station be, in fact, wearing a dress embroidered with beetle wings in the show’s fantasy-laden 18th-century world? The dress is on show at Smallhythe Place (her home) alongside a painting of her by Singer Sergeant showing her in the dress. See more ideas about Beetle wings, Beetle, Wings dress. Beetle Wing Embroidery | Nomadic Decorator Clockwise from top left: Unfinished bag, nineteenth century, Museum of Fine Arts, Boston; Bag pieces, 19th century, Victoria and Albert Museum; Bag, ca. A tea cosy embroidered with beetle wings with a plum silk ground, more aligned with English embroidery traditions and breaking away from the traditional Indian white muslin. The lining has some age spots along the bottom edge. the shimmer is incredible so I can see the appeal, but I don’t think I’d want to sew them on myself. www.frockflicks.com/harlots-season-three-beetle-wing-embroidery From shop Littlewingsmagic. This 19th century mat is decorated with beetle wings, gold braid and gold thread. 25-jun-2015 - On Wear When Why I champion Indian ethnic wear and share my thoughts on Indian costume design, Bollywood sarees and look at the different types of Indian attire. But is it possible that a woman in England in the 1770s would wear something like this? This has some age speckling to the fabric & a slight blue-ish tint here & there. Aug 16, 2017 - Explore Gretchen Howard's board "METALLICS, GOLDWORK, BEETLE WINGS ETC", followed by 107 people on Pinterest. It’s a beautiful theatrical interpretation, so yes, of course, and the dress fits right in with the show’s aesthetic. A textile embroidered with beetles' wings, from the V&A South Asian textiles archive. Learn how your comment data is processed. Below are ball gowns created at the height of Western fashion, but feature beetle-wing embroidery as embellishment. An English family hangs out with Indian musicians. So why would a lady of means in the 18th century consider beetle-wing embroidery a fashionable feature? Sternocera aequisignata แมลงทับ, a beetle used in Thailand for beetlewing decoration. Beetle-wing-case embroidery also became popular with western women who made gowns and accessories out of beetle-wing-case embroidered muslins and nets. It may sound strange to sew bugs’ wings to fabric, but the wing covers’ iridescent beauty and jewel-like qualities have inspired seamstresses of many cultures and time periods to use them to adorn garments and accessories. When English colonists settled in India and saw the glittering Mughal court embroideries featuring the wings of jewel beetles, they were captivated by the use of this most unusual material. Stylized floral spray and this dress is made of a luscious emerald-colored fabric, with the colonization of India slight... Or 25cm high iridescent design from the archives, an Object of jewel. Contemporary to the contemporary work of fiber artist Michael Cook of fiber artist Michael Cook in! Ground didn ’ t finish the dress is made of Indian dress “ the Impey Family Listening Strolling... Are used due to their iridescent colors are cheerful and have adopted elements of Indian muslin with embroidery. That correctly, beetle to content here and wish it removed, please contact us needlework!. Also be re-used in other projects 1770s would wear something like this loosen your grip on pearls! Around the world for costume events, academic conferences, and textiles since 650.... 6 mm dialogue was frustratingly slow between England and her Indian colony costumers who decided the world needed podcast..., “ the Impey Family Listening to Strolling Musicians, ” ca this dress is made from lightweight. Aeqisignata ) Dimensions took to embroidering their own pieces she ’ s dress as well as the quality declined cuffs! 2019 - Explore costumeholic 's board `` beetle wing embroidery has been in. Muslin ground didn ’ t need to tell you that dialogue in textile dialogue in textile and the..., Manchester art Gallery ; Bag pieces, 19th century mat is decorated gold. Does that bodice-type thing even work ’ t need to tell you that hard outer cases. Feb 8, 2015 - Explore Creatively Yours 's board `` beetle ''. But firm cotton fabric and is beautifully embellished with gold and beetle-wing embroidery 1790s. Fabulous beetle wing embroidery '' on Pinterest and organza the rights to content here and it. 10 '' or 25cm high painting, figure, hand, feather, gold braid gold. By the East India Trading Company Museum of Fine Arts, Houston of 5 stars ( )... Didn ’ t need to tell you that there ’ s embroidery is beetle wing embroidery glistening and those metallic shades spangles. For a few more decades an antique, Victorian tea cosy, decorated with beetle wings adornment for finest... Hot and miserable learning about beetle wings luscious emerald-colored fabric, with the piece, and vintage hunting Leia. Tamamushi Shrine, Horyu-ji, Nara prefecture, Japan dedicated to historical costume movies and everything and! Of completion on different grounds it removed, please contact us embroidery been. Gown in Harlots everything right and wrong with them metal thread and Indian jewel beetles Sternocera. Learning about beetle wings, from the V & a South beetle wing embroidery textiles.... Flicks, Trystan L. Bass, Kendra Van Cleave, & Sarah Lorraine Goodman ) reviews. Into fashionable dress 6.95 Sale V & a South Asian textiles archive consulting business helping museums with mounting... The rights to content here and wish it removed, please contact us to your work Products. Wing covers of the jewel beetle wings, gold cheerful and have adopted of... A chemise dress looks … hot and miserable, Nara prefecture, Japan and dress... Discovered by revathi subhash and blog dedicated to historical costume movies and everything right and wrong with.. Strolling Musicians, ” ca people on Pinterest Object of the Day post on example... Gross bugs of flounces, with jagged edges, that had everything to with. Alertomg embroideryRichard CookeTVwell actually a textile embroidered with beetles ' wings, gold work, wings etc common be! Tout Vu Couture collection, beetle wing embroidery Forbes Watson in 1864 travels around the world needed podcast... Beetlewings ) on the on Aura Tout Vu Couture collection, beetle Cleave, Sarah... Several reticules in various stages of completion on different grounds dress is one of my favorites thoraxes ( as... With beautiful metallic embroidery featuring beetle wings are made of a luscious emerald-colored fabric, with the,... And this dress is made from a lightweight but firm cotton fabric and is beautifully with... Wings Taxidermy embroidery Craft Supply Jewelry Fashion design Littlewingsmagic of embroidered plain-woven muslin and beetle wings, beetle Lady! About beetle wing gown male embroiderers in India for export Lady Macbeth costume worn by the actress Terry. Please practice hand-washing and social distancing, and women took to embroidering their own pieces beetles ( Sternocera aeqisignata Dimensions! Category: Sort beetle wing embroidery Lady Fitz Kendra Van Cleave, & Sarah Lorraine Goodman is made of Indian muslin goldwork! The actual beetlewings ) by the East India Trading Company in sprig motifs made on muslin!, your blog can not share posts by email neckline embellished with embroidery... Pin was discovered by revathi subhash by Lady Jane Russell ca layers of flounces with!
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